Day 2 - Infrastructure & Class


Run the Water



Each morning around six, the procession on Signal Hill begins.The squatter camp residents behind us trek up and down the hill filling empty jugs with contaminated all purpose water from a public pump. There are two to three containers per individual. Babies are strapped to backs and water containers are balanced on heads hands.



Water run
I wonder how they feel as they pass the mammoth eyesore that is our water tank.

They are acutely aware that this house is occupied by "Internationals."

For every household that has plumbing and electricity, there are more than several that do not.
 
Make-shift shantytowns and squatter camps are scattered throughout the city. It is a typical way of life.





These camps are similar in structure to the Favelas in Brazil or the slums of Mumbai India.


Some are festering waste lands running in congruence with contaminated streams whose waters are used for the functions of everyday life.

To contrast, you will often find parallel to smaller squatter camps, newly constructed 3 story manors, some still under construction with high cement walls inlayed with glass shards and barbed wire.


Their grounds are manned by security around the clock.



 


The balcony view

Many of these towering structures are constructed by expatriates who've decided to "Put down roots" in the country. Others are erected by citizens living abroad. This kind of marginal transparency separating the haves and have-nots seem to be typical of the country. Even so we spent 11 days next to impoverished neighbors who did us no harm & were as curious about us as we were about them


Mama G.
One wonders  in a country where the boundaries between the two are often skeletal; that the crime rates aren’t exceedingly high - as they once were. Out of curiosity, neighbors the resident sqautters call me over to sit with a group of inquiring minds. They have questions about the black American lady and what she is doing in this country                     
.



The Ladies
We exchange questions, laugh each others jokes and smoke cigarettes with Mama G, the resident matriarch.

With the country's average life expectancy being less than fifty years old, many of these ladies are already widowed.

Still they want to know how they can find an American husband.

These people, my neighbors, offered piece of mind which in turn quelled negative pretenses, doubts and fears.

      










Below, are images of the more abysmal living conditions throughout the city. These vast camps house overflowing numbers of people making these shanties further laden with communicable disease and infection. Children are being raised under conditions that will ultimately shape the rest of their lives.



Typical camp


The end result of such dire living conditions affect the country as a whole. When this is your day-to-day living, optimism is fleeting. However the most astonishing phenomenon that I witnessed in each of these incredible situations was the ability of people to still find joy in everyday life.

 

Squatter Camps

 
  
 Less than a mile from the squatter camp pictured here, we find ourselves driving through 2 lavish wedding processions complete with imported foriegn vehicles as gifts while a swarm  Sierra Leoneans draped in their finest, flock the streets. Is there is a working- middle class population in Sierra Leone? It seems as though in this country, you are either wealthy or... you are poor



Inside the Shantys


life prevails

contaminated streams spread infectious disease


wedding part no.1
Wedding party no.2



Day 1 - Ow Di Bordi?



Ow Di Bordi - How are you feeling?
I awoke around 5:30am to the serenade of roosters. For anyone who has lived in the Caribbean this is a familiar way to begin the day- and there is no sense in trying to sleep through this especially when one of the Toms is in your own backyard.
The view from the house in the breaking daylight is breathtaking. It’s hard to believe that this country is laden in poverty and standing on the stilts of a shaky socio-economic infrastructure. Sierra Leone is filled will lush lands begging to be refined through agriculture. The maritime also teams with an abundant resource of fish. All this coupled with the country's other natural resources keep the international community salivating and plotting on how to acquire the country's commodities.




On this day I met up with some companions at Hotel Barmoi for lunch. Owned and operated by a native Sierra Leonean, Hotel Barmoi is in Lumley not far from the beach (nothing here is far from a beach) The hotel has hosted the likes of David Beckham & its beautiful views overlook the ocean. On this day the owner has arranged entertainment by an African dance troupe and a buffet style brunch. I am enamored, this is the stuff they teach us in class at Alvin Ailey in NYC – but these guys are good – great in fact. It seemed like the perfect spot to conduct a discussion on a rather touchy subject.



Live entertainment at Hotel Barmoi



One of my hosts arranged for me to meet with Peter a U.N. staff journalist/photographer of 7 years. It is here that I will open my discussion about gender equality issues as well as the practice of FGM (female genital mutilization or cutting) and its eradication. During our discussion I am warned that FGM is a sensitive issue that should be engaged in a pragmatic way.
“Because the Sierra Leonean population is composed of practicing tribes, many of the women you will talk to have undergone the ritual,”  the Peter explains.
Lucy, my friend and student of Sierra Leone's Fourah Bay college explains the sensitivity to the topic this way, 
“Most of the girls who I attend school with that have undergone the ritual, regret having gone through it - but only after the fact. When we discuss sex and relationships they become very defensive because they cannot relate in many aspects of the conversation."


The views from the Veranda at Hotel Barmoi


This could be because FGM is a very old tribal tradition that is still practiced current day. Sierra Leone's population is composed of approx 16 different tribes across the four provinces of the country the likes of which include the Mende, Temne, Krio and Fullah.  Female genital mutilization is not considered to be a crime amongst the tribes rather a right of passage for young girls.

The ritual involves circumcising part or all of a girl’s exterior genitalia (labia minor and or majora) and the most extreme form removes the entire exterior genetalia as well as sealing part of the vaginal opening ).


The preparation process is comparable to a Sweet 16 birthday celebration and the purpose of the ceremony is akin to that of a Bat Mitzvah. This ritual will signify the girl’s coming of age in her community. She will be considered an adult capable of marriage and a contributing member of her tribe. The preparation, the celebration and the cost paid to the circumciser can be a costly measure.
Of course you want to do it. They buy you new clothes, jewellery, you get your hair done, and gifts.” Most girls can’t wait for their turn…”

Says Lucy. She  fled her village to move to the city with her extended family when her father was preparing Lucy for the ritual 


Freetown




I later find out while visiting the outer regions how women who refuse to undergo the practice become outcasts and social pariahs, they are even considered not fit for marriage by their own tribes’ men. They are cast out of secret societies that enable them the access to social networking structures within their communities up to and as far as political and government positions. It is alleged that the late wife of Sierra Leone President Ernest Bai Karoma arranged to have a large number of these traditional ceromonies performed free of charge in order to win votes for her husband during his election.

Needless to say, the discussion is spirited and sets the pace for my project.
Peter becomes the first of many men to tell me that the Krios of Sierra Leone do not practice this ritual on their young women. He end off by saying, 
"Sufficed to say you can assume that all Krio women are “In tact” and for this reason, they are pursued by all men."

Touch Down or Take Off? ...I am so Confused



This is how I roll.....but only in Africa




Elhaji wants an i-phone too
Kids can fall asleep anywhere
After thirteen hours in the air with a 3 hour layover in Belgium, multiple bottles of airplane vino and an uncomfortable nap (quite the opposite of my little fewllow passenger there) I arrive safely on the island of Lungi, Sierra Leone's airport base. From here it's on to the main city of Freetown.  It ain't JFK airport more like Madagascar2.


It is equipped with the bare essentials which may or may not be funtional on any given day. I went through customs and headed outside to find my first host and transporter, Elhaji who is to ensure that I get to Freetown in one piece. Next, I'm bused a few yards away to an ex-military chopper. You can also take a boat or water taxi to Freetown and pay a fraction of the cost, but today I'm rolling in style. 


Choppers and choppy stomachs
Approximately 12 passengers, mostly NGO personnel, and international govn't officals were  crammed in along with their luggae for take-off. The Russian pilots explain that the ride would be a smooth 7 minutes long.
I sat by a window that was jokingly (I think) designated as an emergency exit & stuck my head out the window for the majority of the 7 minutes while checking on another passenger who was nauseous and close to collapse (he looked green). Noticing how giddy I was, someone asked , "Is this your first helicopter ride?"  Disgracefully and with all 30 some-odd of my teeth showing I squealled, "YES!"  gushing just enough to nauseate the remaining passengers who simply rolled their eyes before tuning me out. I'm so uncouth but I got some great shots -












KUSHE *WELCOME* TO SIERRA LEONE



A VIEW FROM THE PLANE
                                                                                                                                                                                                                          
In 2009, when a friend of a friend invited me to visit her country in West Africa, I stumbled over both feet to get on the plane. I didn’t know much about Sierra Leone outside of its association with the Blood Diamond conflict but I quickly learned that along with being one of the poorest countries in the world it was also still considered dangerous and undesirable.
  
I didn’t care about that, even better I thought. I won’t be exposed to some “filtered to fit a desired experience” type of trip. I was going to a place where electricity had just become available 24 hours a day - and that was only within the capital city of Freetown.
A place where people lived on a dollar a day and barbaric practices like female genital cutting were as common as Sunday service. I would be living in a beautiful house that was caddy corner to a shanty town. And as American as I felt, physically  there would be little distinction between me and the local population.

A VIEW OF FREETOWN THE CAPITAL CITY

When I told a few associates that I would be travelling to Africa, initially, many did not believe me. Considering that I as a Black American have no family on the continent of Africa, it struck my friends and associates as odd that I would be travelling there on vacation. "Why Africa?" they'd ask. But my question to them was: If I were Chinese or Hispanic, would you question my travelling to Asia or Latin America?

It was to this day the best experience that I have had abroad. I would find out that in addition to a dark past, that Sierra Leone had a rich cultural history.  Not only was it one of the African countries drained of its inhabitants during the transatlantic slave trade but it would also be one of the first African countries to accept the returning freed slaves. But these slaves  would go on to become one of the most prominent tribes (Krio) in the country  present day.

The morning of...

6:42am Off to work for a couple of hours. Not sure why I am coming in. The boss knows I have an early evening flight but he insisted! What a killjoy (original thought edited). I think he's jealous - haha! That's ok I'm not returning when he thinks I am - toucher!

Can't forget to pop my Malaria tablets whilst hoping they don't give me diarreha (did I spell that right?) So far I've been shot up with Yellow Fever (a must) and Tetanus (a precaution) forgoed on the Hep B (didn't have $80 - the others were free - (courtesy of my employer) As well as traveler's insurance (thank God) Perhaps I should've done a "Hepatitis shot" fundraiser - hmmm next time. Am officially packed (kinda) looks like I'm going on missionary work for 3 months. Ok bus coming in 10 minutes still not dressed... ....first stop... Brussels Belgium ....